舊名「雙溪口」的「嘉義縣最小鄉鎮」,因地處三疊溪與華興溪(昔稱「倒孔山溪」)會合處和流入北港溪而得名,直至民國三十四年(1945)改為「溪口鄉」。全村總人口數雖不到一萬五千人,蘊含著值得令人探究的豐富文化,親切質樸的人情味、與如同時空凝結的景致,我總將它視為離嘉義市很近的秘密基地。
同步刊登「微笑台灣319鄉」 嘉義異鄉人專欄 :
漫遊嘉義縣最小鄉鎮,溪口走訪老街、吃古早味美食,尋找蘊藏日常的時空記憶
▼ 漫遊老街遙想過往榮景▼
位於和平街與忠孝街之間的中正路段,根據史料推估,約莫於清道光年間已發展為街市,日治時期是五米寬的石子路,至民國五0年代(1960)為鼎盛時期,街上商家林立,舉凡中西藥房、金仔店(銀樓)、裁縫西裝店、相館、旅社、戲院等比比皆是,是周遭區域人貨來往必經之地。
隨著都市計畫道路闢建,如今已不見熙來攘往的商業盛況,現仍保存數棟磚木結構、門面窄縱身長的街屋建築,其中以開業迄今已超過一百五十年的「張濟生中藥房」最具代表性。沙拉油桶改裝的藥材盒堆疊成牆,經年累月使用的中藥器具、厚實木質櫃台、對外領藥窗台,步入老街的第一棟「樓仔厝」,遙想過往產業榮景。
再往前方走即見「中正路134巷」,據說這段迷宮般的蜿蜒巷弄,過往是許多長輩們小時上下學的必經路徑,沿途每幾戶人家就有一口井,總被嚇唬別太靠近否則會冒出女鬼抓小孩,而販賣銅板價小零嘴的古早柑仔店,更蘊藏著許多成長回憶。民國一0一年(2012)溪口鄉公所邀請藝術家與在地居民,共同打造為充滿故事、可遊憩可探險的「愛溪口的秘密通道」,如今雖不見魚貫穿越的排路隊學童,仍可透過沿途呼應在地產業的Q版角色、及結合聚落環境的裝置藝術,展開一趟富含在地風土人情的奇幻旅程。
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延伸閱讀
▼ 品味日常中的質樸美食▼
因應當地習慣早起的生活模式,位於忠孝街與中正路街廓的早市,一早就人聲鼎沸,琳瑯滿目的農產魚獲與民生用品,各有擁護者的早餐如米糕、碗粿、肉羹、肉粽等,提供當地居民一天滿滿的活力。位於中正路轉角116號的「阿珍姐傳統美食」,除販售飯麵湯品等選項,第三代更將原本沒有販售的阿嬤手藝「芋粿巧」重現,比手掌還大的飽滿,一咬下渾圓粿粉團,盡是醇厚撲鼻的芋頭香,與鹹香內餡搭配地恰到好處。
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常有人說:「到一個聚落想找美食,就到廟口就對了!」在溪口也不例外,每到下午北極殿廟口前小吃攤販聚集,混合蚵仔鮮味與濃厚薑味的現炸蚵嗲、冬季限定的古早味烤玉米,往街角走去則見開業近五十年的肉圓攤,外皮Q彈內餡飽足,再來一碗柴魚湯風味更佳。
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而造型俏皮討喜的「鳥仔餅」,以番薯粉為原料,拌入麵粉、酥油為餅皮,加入麥芽糖融合內餡,早期居民運用做為普渡祭拜的牲禮替代品,造型多樣甚至還有魚、樹葉、葫蘆等不同造型,其中尤以小鳥造型最受歡迎,現更發展出符合健康概念的低糖少油,以及紅豆、抹茶等多元口味,已成為許多人到溪口必帶走的好口味。
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當然還有古早味雙糕潤、碗粿米糕、鹽漬酸菜、薄荷雞等傳統好味道,而你想念的溪口美食是甚麼?
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延伸閱讀
▼ 嘉義縣最小的鄉鎮X密集度最高的武館▼
早期溪口移民多來自福建泉漳和粵東等地,歷經二三百年的族群融合,成就了溪口鄉的多元族群文化特色。早期外求自保,習武保衛家園成風氣,私人武館紛紛崛起,日治時期受管制、國民政府來台後武術成為強健體播的休閒娛樂,結合廟會慶典成為迎神賽會的陣頭表演。
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所謂的「崙尾拳頭膨,溪口戲瘋」,表示「崙尾聚落地區武風興盛,溪口戲曲演出盛行」的特殊樣貌。曾經或現存的溪口武館共23館、尚可出陣有10館,除了少數真的太迷你的部落之外,幾乎每個庄頭都有武館,有的甚至不只一館呢!
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在孫維聰鄉長的支持下.「溪口鄉文化生活館」致力推展,兩年前開始了「武動溪口-溪口武館紀錄片計畫」,由 東海大學郭應哲教授 及 蘇志宗導演 帶領紀錄團隊,詳實探訪記錄十個溪口武館,因應防疫,暫緩實體展出和紀錄片發表,改以「數位典藏」結合「社群媒體」的線上展模式 , 期待和無法到溪口的好朋友們共同分享這份專屬於溪口的特殊能量。
異鄉人也有幸於2021年底統籌整體宣傳與計畫推進,有機會邀請 嘉義在地設計團隊 「 何方創意設計 」 ,提出我腦中 「既傳統又當代」 、 「很台位又新潮」 的主視覺畫面。而這段時間實地探訪溪口現存武館,除了一直練台語、把溪口十四個村落位置和特色都搞懂之外,更有幸與武館老師傅們當面對談紀錄,不敢說「傳承保存」,能「好好紀錄並推廣」,就是我在能力範圍中所能做的努力了 !
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▼ 傳統文化的與時俱進 ▼
仔細探究溪口,隱藏於街角巷尾的傳統文化更是引人入勝:疊溪村田野間的「陳明山布袋戲布景工作室」,是全台少見跨足戲劇、醮壇、廣告的國寶級彩繪畫師,獲登錄為「嘉義縣無形文化資產」,更樂於與青年團隊跨界合作;竹編器皿為早期最常使用的常民生活素材,民國五、六0年代,全台近九成竹籠產自溪口鄉美南村天赦庄,爾後因大量塑膠製品出現而日趨沒落,如今創新研製貼近常民生活的客製化產品,持續竹編工藝於日常。
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▽ 溪計畫
異鄉人連續參加了兩屆的 「溪計畫」,第一屆以藝術介入原公所及老街空間,帶來溪口不同的風景,也引入了許多不同關心土地的朋友們走進溪口;至第二屆更以「土地教養」為題,我很喜歡「土地是最好的老師」「環境是最真的教養」的理念,看著農村孩子們及社區長者們的共同參與,透過策展團隊的規劃,展現出專屬的「野」能量 。
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第二屆時更難得參加了 「田庄野遊」,跟著鄉親們從天臺殿到舊公所浩浩蕩蕩走了七公里,一路上很多私密景點、好幾場在地計畫展現,很開心能以如此特別的方式走踏溪口 。
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延伸閱讀
關於這個「嘉義縣最小鄉鎮」,你認識了多少呢?這裡沒有繽紛絢爛,有的盡是質樸日常與田園風采,不妨找個時間漫步其中,你將感受它的獨特魅力。
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